Buku Teknologi Pembuatan Benang dan Pembuatan Kain Jilid 1 Kelas 10 SMK

Materi Teknologi Pembuatan Benang dan Pembuatan Kain Jilid 1

KATA SAMBUTAN .................................................................. i
PENGANTAR PENULIS .......................................................... ii
DAFTAR ISI ............................................................................ iii
DAFTAR ISTILAH/GLOSARI .................................................. xv
SINOPSIS ............................................................................... xvi
DESKRIPSI KONSEP PENULISAN........................................ xvii
PETA KOMPETENSI .............................................................. xviii

JILID 1
BAB I PENDAHULUAN
1.1 Ruang Lingkup Teknologi Tekstile .......................... 1
1.1.1 Pengertian Tekstil..................................................... 1
1.1.2 Pengertian Berdasarkan Etimologi ........................... 1
1.1.3 Pengertian Berdasarkan Substansi Bahan............... 1
1.1.4 Pengertian Berdasarkan Modifikasi Bahan dan
Fungsi....................................................................... 1
1.1.5 Pengertian Berdasarkan Teknologi Proses .............. 1
1.2 Prinsip Pembuatan Benang ..................................... 2
1.3 Prinsip Pembuatan Kain Tenun ............................... 3

BAB II BAHAN BAKU
2.1. Pengertian Serat ...................................................... 4
2.2. Sejarah Perkembangan Serat .................................. 4
2.2.1 Produksi Serat.......................................................... 4
2.3. Jenis Kapas ............................................................. 6
2.4. Penerimaan Bal Kapas ............................................. 6
2.5. Penyimpanan Bal Kapas .......................................... 6
2.6. Pengambilan Bal Kapas ........................................... 6
2.7. Persyaratan Serat untuk dipintal ............................. 6
2.7.1 Panjang Serat ........................................................... 6
2.7.1.1 Penentuan Panjang Serat dengan Tangan .............. 7
2.7.1.2 Penentuan Panjang Serat dengan Alat ................... 7
2.7.2 Kekuatan Serat ......................................................... 8
2.7.2.1 Kekuatan Serat per Helai ......................................... 8
2.7.2.2 Kekuatan Serat per Bundel (Berkas) ........................ 8
2.7.3 Kehalusan Serat ....................................................... 9
2.7.4 Gesekan Permukaan Serat ...................................... 11
2.7.5 Kekenyalan Serat (Elastisitas).................................. 11

BAB III BENANG
3.1 Benang menurut Panjang Seratnya ......................... 13
3.2 Benang menurut Konstruksinya ............................... 13
3.3 Benang menurut Pemakaiannya .............................. 13
3.4 Persyaratan Benang ................................................. 17
3.4.1 Kekuatan Benang ..................................................... 17
3.4.2 Mulur Benang ........................................................... 18
3.4.3 Kerataan Benang ..................................................... 18
3.5 Penomoran Benang ................................................. 19
3.5.1 Satuan-satuan yang dipergunakan .......................... 19
3.5.2 Penomoran Benang secara tidak langsung ............. 19
3.5.2.1 Penomoran Cara Kapas (Ne
1) ................................. 20
3.5.2.2 Penomoran Cara Worsted (Ne
3) ............................. 21
3.5.2.3 Penomoran Cara Wol N
e2 atau Nc ........................ 21
3.5.2.4 Penomoran Cara Metrik (Nm) ................................. 22
3.5.2.5 Penomoran Cara Perancis (Nf) ............................... 22
3.5.2.6 Penomoran Cara Wol Garu (Ne
4) ........................... 23
3.5.3 Penomoran Benang Secara Langsung .................... 23
3.5.3.1 Penomoran Cara Denier (D atau Td) ....................... 24
3.5.3.2 Penomoran Cara Tex (Tex) ...................................... 24
3.5.3.3 Penomoran Cara Jute (Ts) ....................................... 25

BAB IV PENCAMPURAN SERAT
4.1 Pembukaan Bungkus Bal Kapas .............................. 27
4.2 Penyimpanan Bal Kapas di Ruang Mixing ............... 28
4.3 Blending ................................................................... 29
4.4 Mixing ....................................................................... 31

BAB V PROSES PEMBUATAN BENANG
5.1 Sistem Pintal dengan Flyer....................................... 33
5.2 Sistem Pintal Mule .................................................... 34
5.3 Sistem Pintal Cap ..................................................... 34
5.4 Sistem Pintal Ring ................................................... 35
5.5 Sistem Pintal Open End ........................................... 36
5.6 Pembuatan Benang Kapas....................................... 37
5.6.1 Cara Memintal dengan regangan biasa (ordinary
draft spinning system) .............................................. 37
5.6.2 Cara memintal dengan regangan tinggi (High draft
spinning system).......................................................\
37
5.6.3 Cara memintal dengan regangan yang sangat
tinggi (Super high draft spinning system) ................. 38
5.6.4 Pembuatan Benang Sisir (Combed Yarn) ................ 39
5.7 Pembuatan Benang Wol........................................... 42
5.7.1 Sistem Pembuatan Benang Wol Garu (Woolen
Spinning) .................................................................. 42
5.7.2 Pembuatan Benang Wol Sisir................................... 44
5.8 Pembuatan Benang Rami ........................................ 48
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5.8.1 Bahan Baku .............................................................. 48
5.8.2 Proses Pengolahan Bahan Baku menjadi Benang... 48
5.8.3 Sifat Rami dibanding dengan serat Kapas .............. 49
5.8.4 Kegunaan Serat Rami .............................................. 50
5.8.5 Pencampuran dengan serat-serat lain ..................... 50
5.8.6 Skema Proses Pemintalan Rami .............................. 50
5.9 Pengolahan Benang Sutera ..................................... 53
5.9.1 Bahan Baku .............................................................. 53
5.9.2 Pengolahan Kokon ................................................... 53
5.9.3 Proses Pemilihan Kokon ......................................... 53
5.9.4 Pembuatan Benang dengan Mesin Reeling ............. 54
5.9.5 Limbah Sutera .......................................................... 56
5.10 Pembuatan Benang Sintetik ..................................... 56
5.10.1 Pengolahan Serat Buatan ........................................ 56
5.10.2 Pembuatan Benang dari Serat Buatan ..................... 57
5.10.3 Benang Pintal (Spun Yarn) ...................................... 59
5.11 Pembuatan Benang Campuran ................................ 60
5.12 Proses di Mesin Blowing .......................................... 62
5.12.1 Mesin Loftex Charger ............................................... 63
5.12.1.1 Proses di mesin Loftex Charger ............................... 63
5.12.2 Mesin Hopper Feeder .............................................. 64
5.12.2.1 Proses di mesin Hopper Feeder Cleaner ................. 64
5.12.2.2 Mesin Hopper Feeder Cleaner ................................ 64
5.12.2.3 Proses di mesin Hopper Feeder Cleaner ................ 64
5.12.2.4 Gerakan antara permukaan berpaku........................ 65
5.12.2.5 Proses di mesin Pre Opener ................................... 67
5.12.2.6 Pemisahan Kotoran di mesin Pre Opener Cleaner .. 68
5.12.2.7 Gerakan Pemukul ..................................................... 68
5.12.3. Mesin Condensor at Cleaner .................................... 69
5.12.3.1 Proses di Mesin Condensor at Cleaner .................... 69
5.12.3.2 Pemisahan Kotoran di Mesin Condensor at Cleaner 69
5.12.4 Mesin Opener Cleaner ............................................. 70
5.12.4.1 Proses di mesin opener Cleane ............................... 70
5.12.4.2 Pemisahan kotoran di mesin opener cleaner .......... 71
5.12.5 Mesin Condensor at Picker ..................................... 71
5.12.5.1 Proses di Mesin Condensor at Picker ...................... 71
5.12.5.2 Pemisahan kotoran di Mesin Condensor at Picker... 71
5.12.6. Mesin Micro Even Feeder......................................... 72
5.12.6.1 Proses di Mesin Micro Even Feeder......................... 73
5.12.7 Mesin Scutcher ......................................................... 73
5.12.7.1 Proses di Mesin Scutcher ......................................... 74
5.12.7.2 Gerakan Pengaturan Penyuapan ............................. 74
5.12.8.3 Proses Pembukaan dan Pemukulan serat di Mesin
Scutcher ................................................................... 78
5.12.8.4 Pemisahan Kotoran di Mesin Scutcher .................... 80
5.12.8.5 Tekanan Rol Penggilas…… ..................................... 82
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5.12.8.6 Tekanan Batang Penggulung Lap............................ 84
5.12.9 Pengujian Mutu Hasil................................................ 87
5.12.9.1 Penimbangan Berat Lap ........................................... 87
5.12.9.2 Pengujian Nomor Lap ............................................... 87
5.12.9.3 Pengujian Kerataan Lap ........................................... 87
5.12.9.4 Pengujian persen limbah .......................................... 88
5.12.10 Perhitungan Regangan............................................. 88
5.12.10.1 Susunan Roda Gigi Mesin Scutcher......................... 88
5.12.10.2 Sistim Hidroulik pada Mesin Blowing ...................... 91
5.12.10.3 Perhitungan Regangan............................................. 91
5.12.11 Perhitungan Produksi ............................................... 96
5.12.11.1 Produksi Teoritis ....................................................... 96
5.12.11.2 Produksi Nyata ......................................................... 96
5.12.11.3 Efisiensi .................................................................... 97
5.12.11.4 Pemeliharaan Mesin Blowing .................................. 97
5.13 Proses di Mesin Carding ......................................... 98
5.13.1 Bagian Penyuapan ................................................... 101
5.13.1.1 Pelat Penyuap .......................................................... 102
5.13.1.2 Rol Penyuap (Feeder Roller) .................................... 102
5.13.1.3 Rol Pengambil (Taker-in/Licher-in) ........................... 103
5.13.1.4 Pisau Pembersih (mote knife) dan saringan bawah (under grid) ........................................................................\
.. 104
5.13.1.5 Tekanan pada Rol Penyuap ..................................... 106
5.13.1.6 Mekanisme pemisahan kotoran dari serat pada
Taker-in ................................................................... 107
5.13.2 Bagian Penguraian ................................................... 109
5.13.2.1 Silinder Utama .......................................................... 109
5.13.2.2 Pelat Depan dan Pelat Belakang.............................. 111
5.13.2.3 Top Flat .................................................................... 111
5.13.2.4 Saringan Silinder (Cylinder Screen) ........................ 112
5.13.2.5 Gerakan Pengelupasan (Stripping Action) ............... 113
5.13.2.6 Gerakan Penguraian (Carding Action) .................... 113
5.13.2.7 Pemisahan Serat Pendek dan serat Panjang........... 114
5.13.3 Bagian Pembentukan dan Penampungan Sliver ...... 114
5.13.3.1 Doffer ........................................................................\
115
5.13.3.2 Sisir Doffer (Doffer Comb) ........................................ 117
5.13.3.3 Rol Penggilas ........................................................... 119
5.13.3.4 Coiler ........................................................................\
120
5.13.4 Pengujian Mutu Hasil................................................ 123
5.13.4.1 Pengujian Nomor Sliver Carding .............................. 123
5.13.4.2 Pengujian Kerataan Sliver Carding .......................... 123
5.13.4.3 Pengujian Persentase waste .................................... 124
5.13.5 Setting pada Mesin Carding ..................................... 124
5.13.6 Pemeliharaan Mesin Carding .................................. 126
5.13.7 Perhitungan Regangan............................................. 126
5.13.7.1 Putaran Lap Roll ....................................................... 126
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5.13.7.2 Putaran Rol Penggilas pada Coiler .......................... 129
5.13.7.3 Tetapan Regangan (TR) atau Draft Constant (DC) .. 130
5.13.7.4 Regangan Mekanik (RM).......................................... 131
5.13.7.5 Regangan Nyata (RN) .............................................. 131
5.13.8 Perhitungan Produksi ............................................... 132
5.13.8.1 Produksi Teoritis ....................................................... 132
5.13.8.2 Produksi Nyata ......................................................... 133
5.13.8.3 Efisiensi .................................................................... 133
5.13.9 Pergantian Roda Gigi ............................................... 134
5.13.9.1 Roda gigi pengganti regangan ................................ 134
5.13.9.2 Roda gigi pengganti produksi ................................... 134
5.14 Proses di Mesin Drawing .......................................... 135
5.14.1 Bagian Penyuapan ................................................... 138
5.14.1.1 Can Penyuapan ........................................................ 138
5.14.1.2 Pengantar Sliver ....................................................... 138
5.14.1.3 Rol Penyuap ............................................................. 138
5.14.1.4 Traverse Guide ......................................................... 138
5.14.2 Bagian Peregangan .................................................. 139
5.14.2.1 Pasangan rol-rol penarik .......................................... 139
5.14.2.2 Rol Bawah ................................................................ 139
5.14.2.3 Rol Atas .................................................................... 140
5.14.2.4 Pembebanan pada Rol Atas..................................... 141
5.14.2.4.1 Pembebanan Sendiri (Self Weighting) ..................... 141
5.14.2.4.2 Pembebanan Mati/Bandul (Dead Weighting) ........... 142
5.14.2.4.3 Pembebanan Pelana (Saddle Weighting) ................ 142
5.14.2.4.4 Pembebanan dengan Tuas (Lever Weighting) ......... 142
5.14.2.4.5 Pembebanan dengan Per (Spring Weighting) .......... 142
5.14.2.5 Peralatan Pembersih ................................................ 143
5.14.2.6 Proses Peregangan .................................................. 144
5.14.2.7 Penyetelan Jarak Antar Pasangan Rol Peregang ... 147
5.14.2.8 Faktor-faktor yang mempengaruhi penyetelan jarak
antar Rol Peregang .................................................. 149
5.14.3 Bagian Penampungan .............................................. 151
5.14.3.1 Pelat Panampung ..................................................... 151
5.14.3.2 Terompet ................................................................. 151
5.14.3.3 Rol Penggilas ........................................................... 152
5.14.3.4 Coiler ....................................................................... 152
5.14.3.5 Can Penampung Sliver............................................. 152
5.14.3.6 Pemeliharaan Mesin Drawing................................... 153
5.14.4 Pengujian Mutu Hasil................................................ 153
5.14.4.1 Pengujian Nomor Sliver Drawing.............................. 153
5.14.4.2 Pengujian Kerataan Sliver Drawing .......................... 153
5.14.5 Perhitungan Regangan............................................. 154
5.14.5.1 Putaran Rol Penyuap ............................................... 154
5.14.5.2 Putaran Rol-rol Peregang ......................................... 156
5.14.5.3 Putaran Rol Penggilas .............................................. 157
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5.14.5.4 Tetapan Regangan ................................................... 157
5.14.5.5 Regangan Mekanik................................................... 157
5.14.5.6 Regangan Nyata....................................................... 159
5.14.6 Perhitungan Produksi .............................................. 159
5.14.6.1. Produksi Teoritis ....................................................... 159
5.14.6.2 Produksi Nyata ........................................................ 160
5.14.6.3 Efisiensi ................................................................... 160
5.14.7 Penggantian Roda Gigi ............................................ 160
5.14.7.1 Roda Gigi Pengganti Regangan ............................... 161
5.14.7.2 Roda Gigi Pengganti Produksi (RPR) ...................... 161
5.15 Persiapan Combing .................................................. 161
5.15.1 Proses di Mesin Pre Drawing ................................... 165
5.15.1.1 Bagian Penyuapan ................................................... 166
5.15.1.2 Bagian Peregangan .................................................. 166
5.15.1.3 Bagian Penampungan .............................................. 166
5.15.1.4 Prinsip Bekerjanya mesin Pre Drawing .................... 167
5.15.1.5 Pemeliharaan Mesin Pre Drawing ........................... 167
5.16 Proses di Mesin Lap Former .................................... 167
5.16.1 Bagian Penyuap ....................................................... 168
5.16.2 Bagian Peregangan .................................................. 169
5.16.3 Bagian Penggulungan .............................................. 169
5.16.4 Prinsip Bekerjanya Mesin Lap Former (Super Lap) . 169
5.16.5 Pemeliharaan Mesin Lap Former (Super Lap) ........ 169
5.16.6 Perhitungan Produksi Mesin Lap Former (Super
Lap) ........................................................................\
.. 170
5.17 Proses di Mesin Combing......................................... 174
5.17.1 Bagian Penyuapan ................................................... 176
5.17.2 Bagian Penyisiran..................................................... 178
5.17.3 Bagian Penampungan Serat Panjang (Web) ........... 184
5.17.4 Bagian Perangkapan, Peregangan dan
Penampungan Sliver ................................................ 186
5.17.5 Penyetelan Jarak dan Pengaturan Waktu ............... 189
5.17.6 Pemeliharaan Mesin Combing ................................. 193
5.17.7 Menentukan Doffing ................................................. 193
5.17.8 Pengendalian Mutu................................................... 193
5.17.9 Perhitungan Penyisiran ........................................... 195
5.17.10 Perhitungan Penyuapan ........................................... 195
5.17.11 Perhitungan Produksi ............................................... 195
5.18 Proses di Mesin Flyer ............................................... 196
5.18.1 Bagian Penyuapan ................................................... 201
5.18.1.1 Can ........................................................................\
... 201
5.18.1.2 Rol Pengantar...........................................................\
201
5.18.1.3 Terompet Pengantar Sliver....................................... 202
5.18.1.4 Penyekat................................................................\
... 202
5.18.2 Bagian Peregangan .................................................. 202
5.18.2.1 Rol Peregang............................................................\
203
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5.18.2.2 Penampung (Colektor) ............................................. 203
5.18.2.3 Pembersih ................................................................ 203
5.18.2.4 Cradle ....................................................................... 203
5.18.2.5 Penyetelan Jarak antara titik jepit rol........................ 204
5.18.2.6 Pemeliharaan Mesin Flyer ....................................... 204
5.18.2.6 Pembebanan pada Rol Atas..................................... 204
5.18.3 Bagian Penggulungan .............................................. 205
5.18.3.1 Flyer..........................................................\
................ 206
5.18.3.2 Bobin ........................................................................\
206
5.18.3.3 Penggulungan Roving pada Bobin ........................... 206
5.18.3.4 Trick Box...............................................................\
.... 209
5.18.3.5 Kesalahan bentuk gulungan Roving ......................... 212
5.18.3.6 Mendoffing ................................................................ 213
5.18.4 Pengendalian Mutu................................................... 214
5.18.5 Perhitungan Peregangan.......................................... 215
5.18.6 Perhitungan Antihan (Twist) ..................................... 222
5.18.7 Perhitungan Produksi ............................................... 226
5.19 Proses Mesin Ring Spinning. ................................... 228
5.19.1 Bagian Penyuapan ................................................... 232
5.19.1.1 Rak ........................................................................\
... 234
5.19.1.2 Penggantung Bobin .................................................. 234
5.19.1.3 Pengantar ................................................................. 234
5.19.1.4 Terompet Pengantar................................................. 234
5.19.2 Bagian Peregangan. ................................................. 234
5.19.2.1 Rol Peregang............................................................\
235
5.19.2.2 Cradle ....................................................................... 236
5.19.2.3 Penghisap (Pneumafil) ............................................. 236
5.19.2.4 Penyetelan Jarak antara Rol Peregang.................... 236
5.19.2.5 Pembebanan pada Rol Atas..................................... 238
5.19.3 Bagian penggulungan............................................... 239
5.19.3.1 Ekor Babi (Lappet)....................................................\
240
5.19.3.2 Traveller...............................................................\
..... 240
5.19.3.3 Ring ........................................................................\
.. 241
5.19.3.4 Spindel ..................................................................... 241
5.19.3.5 Pengontrol Baloning (Antinode Ring) ....................... 241
5.19.3.6 Penyekat (Separator) ............................................... 241
5.19.3.7 Tin Roll ..................................................................... 242
5.19.3.8 Proses Pengantihan (Twisting)................................. 242
5.19.3.9 Peroses Penggulungan Benang pada Bobin............ 244
5.19.3.10 Bentuk Gulungan Benang pada Bobin ..................... 250
5.19.3.11 Proses Doffing .......................................................... 251
5.19.4 Pengendalian Mutu................................................... 251
5.19.4.1 Nomor Benang ......................................................... 251
5.19.4.2 Kekuatan Benang ..................................................... 251
5.19.4.3 Twist Per Inch (TPI)… .............................................. 252
5.19.4.4 Ketidakrataan Benang .............................................. 252
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5.19.4.5 Putus Benang ........................................................... 252
5.19.4.6 Grade Benang .......................................................... 252
5.19.5 Susunan Roda Gigi Mesin Ring Spinning ................ 253
5.19.6 Pemeliharaan Mesin Ring Spinning ......................... 255
5.19.7 Perhitungan Regangan............................................. 255
5.19.8 Perhitungan Antihan (Twist) ..................................... 258
5.19.9 Perhitungan Produksi ............................................... 261
5.20 Proses di Mesin Ring Twister ................................... 265
5.20.1 Bagian Penyuapan ................................................... 270
5.20.1.1 Rak Kelos (Creel) ..................................................... 271
5.20.1.2 Pengantar Benang.................................................... 271
5.20.1.3 Rol Penarik ............................................................... 271
5.20.2 Bagian Penggulungan .............................................. 272
5.20.2.1 Ekor Babi (Lappet)....................................................\
272
5.20.2.2 Pengontrol Baloning (Antinode Ring) ....................... 270
5.20.2.3 Penyekat (separator) ................................................ 273
5.20.2.4 Spindel ..................................................................... 273
5.20.2.5 Ring ........................................................................\
.. 273
5.20.2.6 Traveller...............................................................\
..... 273
5.20.2.7 Tin Roll ..................................................................... 273
5.20.2.8 Proses Pengantihan (Twisting)................................. 274
5.20.2.9 Proses Penggulungan Benang pada Bobin.............. 276
5.20.2.10 Proses Doffing .......................................................... 281
5.20.2.11 Proses Steaming ..................................................... 282
5.20.2.12 Pemeliharaan Mesin Ring Twister ........................... 282
5.20.2.13 Bentuk Gulungan Benang pada Bobin ..................... 283
5.20.3 Pengendalian Mutu................................................... 284
5.20.4 Perhitungan Antihan (Twist) ..................................... 285
5.20.5. Perhitungan Produksi ............................................... 286
JILID 2
BAB VI DESAIN ANYAMAN
6.1. Pengertian Desain Anyaman .................................... 288
6.2. Cara Menggambar Desain Anyaman ....................... 288
6.3. Desain dan Motif Kain. ............................................. 292
6.4. Cara Pembuatan Desain Anyaman .......................... 294
6.5. Anyaman Dasar ........................................................ 294
6.5.1. Anyaman Polos (Plain, Platt, Taffeta)....................... 294
6.5.2. Anyaman Keper (Twill, Drill) ..................................... 294
6.5.3. Anyaman Satin ......................................................... 295
6.6. Anyaman Turunan .................................................... 295
6.6.1. Turunan Anyaman Polos Langsung ......................... 295
6.6.2. Turunan Anyaman Polos Tidak Langsung ............... 292
6.6.3. Turunan Anyaman Keper ......................................... 292
6.6.4. Turunan Anyaman Satin ........................................... 301
6.7. Anyaman Campuran................................................. 302
6.8. Anyaman untuk tenunan rangkap............................. 303
xi
6.9. Anyaman Kain Khusus ............................................. 304
6.9.1. Anyaman Dua Muka ................................................. 304
6.9.2. Anyaman Leno ......................................................... 304

BAB VII PROSES PERSIAPAN PERTENUNAN
7.1. Tujuan Proses Persiapan Pertenunan...................... 306
7.1.1 Standar Konstruksi Kain Tenun ................................ 306
7.1.1.1 Pengaruh Konstruksi Kain terhadap Proses
Persiapan Pertenunan .............................................. 306
7.1.1.2 Urutan Proses Persiapan Pertenuan ........................ 307
7.1.1.2.1 Macam-macam Proses Persiapan ........................... 307
7.1.1.2.2 Macam-macam Proses Pertenunan ......................... 307
7.2. Proses Pengelosan .................................................. 310
7.2.1 Tujuan Proses Pengelosan. ..................................... 310
7.2.2 Bentuk Bobin Kelos .................................................. 310
7.2.3 Mekanisme Gerakan Mesin Kelos ............................ 311
7.2.4 Pemeliharaan Mesin Winding .................................. 325
7.2.5 Perhitungan Produksi ............................................... 326
7.3. Proses Pemaletan .................................................... 327
7.3.1 Tujuan Proses Pemaletan ........................................ 328
7.3.2 Bentuk Bobin Palet ................................................... 328
7.3.3 Mesin Palet (Print Winder)........................................ 332
7.3.3.1 Mesin Palet Otomatis ............................................... 331
7.3.3.2 Pemeliharaan Mesin Palet ....................................... 346
7.4. Proses Penghanian .................................................. 346
7.4.1 Tujuan Proses Penghanian ...................................... 346
7.4.2 Cara Penghanian...................................................... 346
7.4.3 Pemilihan Gulungan Benang pada Bobin................. 347
7.4.4 Cara Penarikan Benang ........................................... 348
7.4.4.1 Penarikan Benang Tegak Lurus dengan Poros
Bobin ........................................................................\
348
7.4.4.2 Penarikan Benang Sejajar (segaris) dengan poros
Bobbin ...................................................................... 349
7.4.5 Mesin Hani Seksi Silinder (Cylinder Sectional
Warping Machine) .................................................... 349
7.4.5.1 Bagian-bagian peralatan Mesin Hani Seksi Silinder. 349
7.4.5.2 Proses Penghanian .................................................. 350
7.4.6 Mesin Hani Seksi Kerucut (Cone Sectional Warping 345Machine) ............................................................. 350
7.4.6.1 Bagian-bagian Mesin Hani Seksi Kerucut ................ 351
7.4.6.2 Proses Penghanian .................................................. 363
7.4.6.3 Pemeliharaan Mesin Hani ........................................ 388
7.5. Proses Penganjian Benang lusi................................ 389
7.5.1 Faktor-faktor Teknis yang mempengaruhi Benang
Lusi pada Proses Pertenunan .................................. 389
7.5.2 Tujuan Proses Penganjian Benang .......................... 389
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7.5.3 Kriteria Proses Penganjian yang Baik ...................... 390
7.5.4 Bahan Kanji .............................................................. 391
7.5.5 Resep Penganjian Benang ....................................... 394
7.5.6 Cara Penganjian ....................................................... 395
7.6 Pencucukan (Drawing in, Reaching in) .................... 418
7.6.1 Mencucuk dengan Tangan ....................................... 419
7.6.2 Mencucuk dengan Mesin.......................................... 420
7.6.2.1 Bagian Peralatan Mesin Cucuk ................................ 421
7.6.2.2 Alat Perlengkapan Proses Pencucukan ................... 422
7.6.2.3 Persiapan Sebelum Proses pencucukan.................. 427
7.6.2.4 Proses Pencucukan.................................................. 429

BAB VIII PROSES PEMBUATAN KAIN TENUN
8.1 Perkembangan Alat Tenun ....................................... 431
8.1.1 Alat Tenun Tangan ................................................... 431
8.1.2 Mesin Tenun ............................................................. 432
8.1.3 Mesin Tenun Teropong Otomatis ............................. 433
8.1.4 Mesin Tenun Tanpa Teropong ................................. 433
8.1.5 Mesin Tenun Multifase ............................................. 433
8.1.6 Kombinasi Tenun dan Rajut ..................................... 434
8.1.7 Peralatan Pembentuk Corak .................................... 434
8.2. Pemilihan Mesin Tenun ............................................ 434
8.2.1 Berdasarkan Jenis Barang ....................................... 434
8.2.2 Berdasarkan Corak Anyaman .................................. 435
8.2.3 Berdasarkan Tingkat Efisiensi yang diinginkan ........ 435
8.2.4 Berdasarkan Corak Warna Pakan ............................ 437
8.3. Pembentukan Kain Tenun ........................................ 437
8.3.1 Gerakan Pakan Mesin Tenun ................................... 438
8.3.2 Diagram Engkol ........................................................ 440
8.4. Mesin Tenun ............................................................. 442
8.4.1 Klasifikasi Mesin Tenun ............................................ 442
8.4.2 Fungsi Bagian-bagian Mesin .................................... 444
8.4.3 Rangka Mesin........................................................... 445
8.5 Gerakan Kopling dan Pengereman .......................... 446
8.5.1 Tipe-tipe Penggerak ................................................. 446
8.5.1.1 Penggerak Langsung ............................................... 446
8.5.1.2 Penggerak dengan Kopling ...................................... 447
8.5.2 Kopling...................................................................... 447
8.5.3 Rem ........................................................................\
.. 448
8.5.4 Pengontrol Penggerakan .......................................... 450
8.5.5 Rancangan Penggerak Kopling Pelat Tunggal
Sulzer ....................................................................... 451
8.5.6 Gerakan putaran balik .............................................. 453
8.6. Penggulungan Lusi ................................................... 454
8.6.1 Rem Beam Lusi ........................................................ 454
8.6.2 Penguluran Lusi dengan Gandar Belakang.............. 455
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8.6.2.1 Penguluran Lusi dengan kendali Pengungkit ........... 456
8.6.3 Penguluran Dua Beam ............................................. 458
8.7 Beam Lusi................................................................. 459
8.8 Gandar Belakang...................................................... 459
8.8.1 Macam-macam Gandar Belakang ............................ 459
8.8.2 Penyetelan Gandar Belakang................................... 461
8.9 Penyetekan Tegangan Benang Lusi ........................ 461
8.10 Penggulung kain....................................................... 463
8.10.1 Pengontrol kain dan Benang Lusi............................. 463
8.10.1.1 Batang Silangan (Lease Rod) .................................. 464
8.10.1.2 Pengontrol Lusi Putus .............................................. 465
8.10.1.3 Temple.........................................................\
............. 466
8.10.2 Gerakan Penggulung Kain ....................................... 468
8.10.2.1 Penggulungan Pasif ................................................. 468
8.11 Pembukaan Mulut Lusi dengan Cam ....................... 471
8.11.1 Macam-macam cam ................................................. 471
8.11.2 Gerakan Pembalik .................................................... 472
8.11.3 Positif Cam ............................................................... 473
8.11.4 SIstem Cam dan Kontra Cam................................... 473
8.12 Pembentukan Mulut Lusi dengan Dobby.................. 473
8.12.1 Macam-macam Dobby ............................................. 474
8.12.2 Mekanisme Dobby .................................................... 474
8.13 Mesin Jacquard ........................................................ 475
8.13.1 Mekanisme Mesin Jacquard ..................................... 475
8.13.2 Klasifikasi Mesin Jacquard ....................................... 481
8.14 Mekanisme Pengetekan ........................................... 492
8.14.1 Mekanisme Mata Rantai (link) .................................. 492
8.14.2 Mekanisme Cam....................................................... 494
8.14.3 Mekanisme Roda Gigi .............................................. 495
8.14.4 Mekanisme Khusus .................................................. 496
8.15 Penyisipan Pakan ..................................................... 496
8.15.1 Penyisipan Pakan dengan Teropong ....................... 496
8.15.1.1 Teropong (Shuttle).................................................... 498
8.15.1.2 Mekanisme Penyisipan Pakan dengan Cam ............ 498
8.15.2 Penyisipan Pakan pada Mesin Tenun Tanpa
Teropong .................................................................. 499
8.15.2.1 Penyisipan Pakan Sistem Jet ................................... 500
8.15.2.2 Penyisipan Benang Pakan dengan Rapier ............... 501
8.16 Pemeliharaan Mesin Tenun ..................................... 502
8.16.1 Pemeliharaan Mesin Tenun Teropong dengan
Menggunakan Cam/Exentrik .................................... 502
8.16.2 Pemeliharaan Mesin Tenun Teropong dengan
Menggunakan Dobby ............................................... 502
8.16.3 Pemeliharaan Mesin Tenun Teropong dengan Menggunakan Jacquard ........................................... 503
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8.16.4 Pemeliharaan Mesin Tenun Rapier dengan Menggunakan Cam/Exentrik ................................... 503
8.16.5 Pemeliharaan Mesin Tenun Projektil dengan Menggunakan Cam/Exentrik ................................... 503
8.16.6 Pemeliharaan Mesin Tenun Jet dengan
Menggunakan Cam/Exentrik ................................... 504
8.17 Proses Pemeriksaan Kain Tenun.............................. 504


PENUTUP ................................................................................ A1
DAFTAR PUSTAKA.................................................................. B1
DAFTAR GAMBAR ................................................................. C1
DAFTAR TABEL ....................................................................... C14